| |
Alternator
/ Starting Battery |
No
Alternator / Deep Cycle |
Kayak
/ Small SLA Battery |
| On Time |
2 Minute to 6 Minutes |
30 Seconds
to 5 Minutes |
20 Seconds to 3 Minutes |
| Off Time |
2 Minutes to 30 Minutes |
1 Minute to 15 Minutes |
40 Seconds to 6 Minutes |
| Auto Shutoff Time |
2 hours to 12 hours
OR Disabled |
2 hours to 12 hours
OR Disabled |
2 hours to 9 hours
OR Disabled |
| Battery Saver |
2.5 hours |
10 hours |
10 hours |
| Low Battery Measure |
Runs in Background |
Runs in Background |
Disabled |
| |
|
|
| |
Q: My timer appears to run fine for a while then shuts off: My timer appears not to work?: My timer turns on for 5 seconds, off for 5 seconds, etc...
A: If your timer comes on and runs for a few hours or so, the only thing that can possibly be wrong is the auto shut off pot is damaged, or the battery voltage is low. **** Keep in mind even if your charger or motor is running and charging the battery, you may have anywhere from 13.5 volts to 14+ volts (charging) measured at the battery, but at the timer, there can be substantially less voltage due to bad or
loose connections, good connections but corroded contacts, etc. in this case the battery may still measure over 12v, but the timer reads only 10 volts at the timer.
*** Reason being **** Each break in the wire connecting the battery to the timer, actually introduces resistance into the power lines causing voltage drop.
*** For Instance ***** My boat last week had 13.7 volts charging when the motor was running, but the voltage showing on my fish finder said only 11 volts
***** REASON ******* There are 5 or more connections in line with the timer, and the contacts were starting to corrode,
***** Solution ******** Run to nearest car parts store, wallmart, sears, sporting goods store, etc.. get some electrical grease. open the connector, squirt some grease on the connections, plug it in and out about 5 to 6 times to work the grease into the contacts, and magically my voltage on the fish finder is now 13.7volts...
In my boat there are the following connections, Battery to Boat Motor, then there is about 20 pin connector to wire harness, then 16 foot wire harness, Connector on the other end, Then that connector breaks into another 2 shorter wire harness, each containing 2 more end connectors, then it runs to the fuse box, through a fuse, to a switch on the dash board, from the switch it goes to the timer. ******* all of these connections have to be "Greased" *******
In most cases the dashboard switch is the worst culprit of the bunch, after a few years of being exposed to the "Elements" the internal contact starts to corrode, Think of any metal, over time it either rusts out, or copper turns green, tin dissolves, etc.. you can have 12.6 volts on your battery, and 12.3 volts at one side of the switch (this is minimal drop due to wire) yet on the other side of the switch you can have 10volts coming out. the switches themselfs are quite expensive, if you
go to a sporting goods store or to a dealer they will be about $40 to $60 each. you can get a cheaper one, but it will also corrode in a matter of one to 2 years. What I did in my boat is pop the switch out of the dash board, take the switch apart and put some electrical grease inside.
all the grease does is lube the connection join and prevent water from getting into the connection, more importantly moisture (think high humidity).
The only way to figure out if it is shutting off is to either measure the voltage with a volt meter, or send it back for testing, (most car parts stores rent out equipment free), turn the timer on, and measure the voltage on each side of the switch. If you do not have access to a volt meter, bypass the entire wire harness by running a new power lead directly from the battery to the timer, this will eliminate all the corrosion voltage drop.
Also yes: Once the timer shuts off due to autoshut off, the power switch must bee turned off, and then on again. This resets the timer
hope this helps. |
|
| |
|
|
| |
Q: What is the difference between Automatic
Shut off time, and Low Battery Shut Off?
A: These are 2 separate settings that can turn
the timer off. The first one being a time setting selected by
adjusting the top potentiometer. This setting can be disabled, or set
from 2 hours to 12 hours, where the timer automatically turns itself off
after the selected time period has expired and the battery has seen no
charging during this time period. If you start your engine, and you
have an alternator, this time period resets when a charging battery voltage
is seen. Low Battery Shutoff is a separate timer setting that can not
be adjusted or turned off. Low Battery Shutoff operates by measuring
the battery voltage and keeping track of battery load and discharge time.
The measured battery discharge is calculated and compared to battery
model in software, and when determined to be low, the timer shuts off.
Timer shut off occurs on which ever happens first, automatic shutoff time
expires, or the battery charge is low. |
|
| |
|
|
| |
Q: Why should I buy your Timer v.s.
the other guys?
A: Because ours is better! It is
epoxy filled so it is 100% sealed. I have used one in my boat
for 7 years now and I do not adjust it at all. Once you set it you
truly forget it. I live in Minnesota so the water temp is cooler than
down south. I have set my timer to a 3 to 1 ratio where it is off for
12 minutes and then comes on for 3 minutes. (it
comes on once every 15 minutes) |
|
| |
|
|
| |
Q: What time ratio should I set my livewell timer too?
A: I recommend that the ON time be
set to do a complete water change. For instance, if it takes 2 minutes
to fill your tank at startup, then set your ON time to 2 minutes.
Likewise, if you have a large livewell tank and it takes 4 minutes to fill
the tank, then set your ON time to 4 minutes. If you have two or more
livewells (one in front, one in back etc.) connected to the same pump, set
the ON time to the fill time of the largest tank. I recommend
setting the OFF time to a 2 to 1 or 1 to 1 setting in a warm climate where
the first number is the off time. In a cooler climate use a 3 to 1 or
4 to 1 ratio. ( example ratio of 4 to 1 means the OFF time is 4 times
as long as the ON time) |
|
| |
|
|
| |
Q: How Many Timers Do I need???
A: Typically this is determined by the number of
water intake ports on your boat. (Intake ports are on the back of your
boat next to the drain plug) You may have two or three livewells
in your boat, but only have one water intake port. This usually means
you only need one timer, because you have one livewell pump that supplys
water to all the livewells in your boat at the same time. Some boats have one water intake port for
each livewell, meaning you have two or more pumps, In this case you need one timer for each intake port. |
|
| |
|
|
| |
Q: What is the difference between the Alternator
Model and the NO Alternator Model?
A: The difference in these models
(alternator vs no alternator) is the discharge time of the battery to which
the timer is connected. Normally an alternator model is connected to
the starter battery, and the NO alternator model is connected to a deep
cycle marine battery. A marine battery has usually has 2-3 times the
charge of starter battery. The alternator timer model resets itself
after you restart your engine (battery is recharging). The no alternator
model does not do this since no alternator means no recharging can ever
happen, until you reach the shore and plug in a battery charger. |
|
| |
|
|
| |
Q: Why can I not find your products in
Retail stores like Cabelas, Gander Mountain, and Bass Pro Shop, and Iboats?
A: Two Reasons, One being we have tried multiple
times contacting several different individuals at these companies to no
Avail. Since we are a small company, we are being Ignored, and Reason 2. Corporate GREED, they want
to make 50% profit margin on electronics parts, which is un-heard of in the
industry.
In other words they want to buy it from me at $25 and sell it to you at $50.
Not only that, they want me to be responsible for all the warranty issues
and customer returns, so they want to make ALL the Profit and take NO Risk. Check this reply out from one of them:
Jeff
I took a look at the
website and read about the product as well as looked at packaging etc. At
this time I will pass on the opportunity. The item is a good item but
financially it does not work into my business plan.
Thank you
We Pride ourself's
on being able to offer you the BEST Product at the BEST Price. Meaning
that our timer has much more adjustability than other timers in addition to
battery charge sensing, All At the Same Price As the Competition. This
technology cost our company 10's of thousands of dollars, + a year of
Engineering to do Battery Modeling Research and 10's of thousands of dollars
more to file a patent. Yet our timers are the SAME PRICE. |
|
| |
|
|
| |
Q: Can I use the timer to turn off all
electrical loads in my boat, so the battery is not dead in the morning?
A: NO and YES! Typically, the timer can
directly control 5 amps and it is meant to turn on and off the livewell
aeration pump only, It can not turn off power to the entire system, example
it can not turn off the radio, or interior lights, or fish finder,
etc... HOWEVER it is possible to connect your entire fuse box to an
external relay which could be controlled by a timer. However the
battery discharge calculation may loose accuracy by doing this. |
|
| |
|
|
| |
Q: Can I connect the timer
to a 3-way switch so that if the switch is in the up position, the livewell
is in manual operation and always on, and if the switch is in the down
position, the livewell is in automatic mode?
A: YES, you can do this, see the
Installation page for more details.
In addition to this, you could also connect a 3-way
switch so that in one position, the timer is connected to the Recirculation
pump, and when in the other position the timer is connected to the livewell
pump. This way you can run the timer if your boat is on the trailer.
Again, see the Installation page for more details!
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
Q:
How long can I expect to run the timer
overnight?
A: This is complicated and depends
on a lot of factors such as the current draw of your pump in amps, the
amount of charge left in your battery from fishing all day, the temperature
outside, the age of your battery, the number of times you have charged /
discharged your battery, the amount that you over discharged your batterys,
etc. and the time setting ON/OFF ratio of your timer. In general a 2.0
or 2.5 amp pump should run for about 12 hours overnight, at which time you
should recharge the battery, or run your boat engine for a while to recharge
the battery |
|
| |
|
|
| |
Q: Why does the Kayak Timer Cost More
than the other timers?
A: Because I Mass Manufacture the circuit
board with the "Regular Boat" (Alternator and Starter Battery) Program installed. The entire process is
handled by machines. In order to create a Kayak Model or Deep Cycle
(No Alternator), I have to go
back and manually re-program the device, and then re-test it. Unless
you want to buy several Hundred Timers in One big lot, in which case I can
order a mass Manufacture of that Model, and at which time you would
also get a price break for a large order. |
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
|
|
